|
By David Stanley
 Ask
me which Pacific island has the most to offer hikers and I'll probably
answer Easter Island. Here on an island 11 km wide and 23 km long you'll
find nearly a thousand ancient Polynesian statues strewn along a powerfully
beautiful coastline or littering the slopes of an extinct volcano. Getting
there is easy as Easter Island can be included in the Oneworld
Explorer airpass, and a fine selection of inexpensive places
to stay and eat await you.
The legends of Easter Island have been recounted many
times. What's less known is that the island's assorted wonders are easily
accessible on foot from the comfort of the only settlement, Hanga Roa.
Before setting out see the sights, however, visit the excellent archaeological
museum next to Ahu Tahai on the north side of town (the term "ahu"
refers to an ancient stone platform). Aside from the exhibits, the museum
has maps which can help you plan your trip. On online map is available
at http://www.mapsouthpacific.com/easter_island.
The first morning after arrival, I suggest you climb Easter
Island's most spectacular volcano, Rano Kau, where Orongo, a major archaeological
site, sits on the crater's rim. But rather than marching straight up the
main road to the crater, look for the unmarked shortcut trail off a driveway
to the right just past the forestry station south of town. It takes under
two hours to cover the six km from Hanga Roa to Orongo, but bring along
a picnic lunch and make a day of it. (If climbing a 316-meter hill sounds
daunting, you can take a taxi to the summit for around US$6 and easily
walk back later in the day.) Once on top, you'll find hiking down into
the colourful crater presents no difficulty. It may also look easy to
go right around the crater rim, but only do so if you're a very experienced
hiker and have a companion along as shear 250-meter cliffs drop into the
sea from the ridge.
 Another
day, rise early and take a taxi to lovely Anakena Beach at the end of
the paved road on the north side of the island (you should pay under US$10
for the 20 km). A few of the famous Easter Island statues have been restored
at Anakena and you could go for a swim, although the main reason you've
come is the chance to trek back to Hanga Roa around the road-free northwest
corner of the island. You'll pass numerous abandoned statues lying facedown
where they fell, and the only living creatures you're unlikely to encounter
are the small brown hawks which will watch you intently from perches on
nearby rocks. If you keep moving, you'll arrive back in town in five or
six hours (but take adequate food, water, and sunscreen). This is probably
the finest coastal walk in the South Pacific.
Almost as good is the hike along the south coast, although
you're bound to run into other tourists here as a paved highway follows
the shore. Begin early and catch a taxi to Rano Raraku, the stone quarry
where all of the island's statues were born. This is easily the island's
most spectacular sight with 397 statues in various stages of completion
lying scattered around the crater. And each day large tour groups come
to Rano Raraku to sightsee and have lunch. However, if you arrive before
9 am, you'll have the site to yourself for a few hours. When you see the
first tour buses headed your way, hike down to Ahu Tongariki on the coast,
where 15 massive statues were reerected in 1994. From here, just start
walking back toward Hanga Roa (20 km) along the south coast. You'll pass
many fallen statues and enjoy some superb scenery. Whenever you get tired,
simply go up onto the highway and stick out your thumb and you'll be back
in town in a jiffy.
|
