Copper Canyon
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Photo
by Ron Mears |
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on the image for larger version |
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All too soon the train pulls into El Divisadero for the spectacular view
of the Barranca del Cobre. The train will stop here for a stay scheduled
to last 15 minutes, but there were so many people on the train the day
of my trip it probably lasted 30 minutes. Not shown here, the station
has at least a dozen food stands which serve delicous burritos.
The Tarahumara Indians offer their arts and crafts for
very affordable prices here. A casual visitor might just see a colorful
indigenous people, but knowing a little of their history certainly deepens
the experience, because only through a combination of tenacity and geography
are they there at all. They call themselves the Raramuri, "men of
light feet". Tarahumara is the name given to them by the Spanish.
Numbering approximately 50,000, they are the last free living indigenous
people in North America, living their lives in this vast Sierra Madre
region, only a tiny portion of which you will even see from the train,
a mountain range called often called the Sierra Tarahumaras because of
their presence.
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Photo
by Ron Mears |
| Click
on the image for larger version |
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The story of their interaction with Western civilization
follows the same sad pattern as that of the indigenous peoples of what
is now the United States and most other countries of the world: one of
being violently subjugated by an arrogant and more powerful culture which
viewed them as sub-human. When gold and silver was discovered in the Sierra
Madres in the late 1500's, the Spaniards wasted little time impressing
the Tarahumara Indians into slavery as miners. They were forced to live
in concentration camps, and, of course, the Tarahumara quickly discovered
they were susceptible to a host of lethal western diseases, such as small
pox and tuberculosis. This bothered their conquistadors not in slightest,
and as demand for the gold and silver increased the Spanish needed more
slave labor and began to raid even the mission pueblos which had been
established by the Jesuits to protect the Indians. Many Raramuri fled
into the canyons, a huge hideout which made it impossible for any group
to ever take complete control of them. The Jesuits were finally recalled
in 1767, but, strangely, their influence over the Raramuri continues to
this day. The natives incorporated much of Christianity into their own
indigenous view of the world, discarding what made little sense to them
and clinging to what did. They were particularly fascinated with the Resurrection,
and to this day Semana Santa (Easter week) is a huge celebration and is
considered to be the key annual event in their culture.
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